ICW - Anchoring

Anchoring Gear for ICW Travel

Traveling down the ICW will present different anchoring challenges than are typically found by coastal cruisers. Although the anchorages are mostly sheltered, they tend to be small (or very small) and often have soft bottoms that don't provide the best of holding. Small anchorages often force you to set on short scope to avoid hitting other boats.

Primary Anchor

The combination of poor holding in many anchorages and the need to stay on short scope increase the need for a large primary anchor. If your primary anchor is only "adequate" for your boat, consider going up one or two sizes on your anchor. A primary anchor that would be adequate in a good mud/sand bottom on 6:1 scope might not hold in a soft sediment bottom on 4:1 scope.

Talk with other cruisers and see what size anchor they use. Find out if the mostly stay at marinas, or if they anchor out often. Ask if they've dragged and under what circumstances. In general, there's no such thing as an anchor that's too big - as long as your windlass or crew can haul it back on deck.

Selecting an Anchorage

There are many guide books available that list ICW anchorages. One of the best is "Anchorages along the Intercoastal Waterway" by Skipper Bob. His website also contains updates on ICW shoaling. Another excellent guide is "Footloose on the Atlantic Waterway " by Captain Vincent Trovato. Note that the popular "Waterway Guide", while an excellent resource, is oriented primarily towards boaters who stay in marinas each evening.

Kedge Anchor

It is not unusual to run aground when traveling on the ICW. Fortunately, most of these are soft groundings on sand or mud. If you can't power off or use your dinghy to tow yourself off, you may need to set a kedge anchor. Lightweight aluminum anchors of the Danforth pattern make excellent kedge anchors as they are easy to handle.

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Anchoring Gear for ICW Travel

þ	Item	Link to Detail
Primary Anchor
	Anchor - Appropriately sized for the boat; consider one to two sizes larger than recommended, depending on where you cruise - Heavy enough to be used as the storm anchor - Stows on bow roller and is "self launching" - Secured to bow roller with a stout locking pin
	Anchor chain and rode - Appropriately sized for the boat - Long enough to provide at least 7:1 scope for the maximum depth you'[ll be anchoring in - Bitter end tied off to a stout part of the boat with a 7/16" line that can be easily cut if you need to slip your anchor line. - Rode markers to indicate length - Shackle pins are seized with monel wire
Secondary Anchor
	Anchor - Different type than the primary anchor
	Anchor chain and rode - Appropriately sized for the boat - Long enough to provide at least 7:1 scope for the maximum depth you'[ll be anchoring in - Bitter end tied off to a stout part of the boat with a 7/16" line that can be easily cut if you need to slip your anchor line. - Rode markers to indicate length - Shackle pins are seized with monel wire
Kedging Anchor
	Anchor - Light enough to be easily handled from the dinghy (e.g. lightweight "Fortress" style of aluminum Danforth)
	Anchor chain and rode - Appropriately sized for the boat - Rode markers to indicate length - Shackle pins are seized with monel wire
Misc. Anchoring Gear
	Anchor light
	Anchor bridle (if using an all-chain rode)
	Empty milk jug for marking your anchor position
Windlass
	Spare windlass handle (if using a manual windlass)

Links to Outside Resources

The following links provide links to further reading, manufacturers websites and more information on "how to"

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